Naich

Using the Google Calendar API from your web site with PHP

This post is mainly to remind myself how to do this when I inevitably forget in a year or two and want to integrate data from a Google Calendar into a project. There are quite a few steps, but it’s pretty straightforward once you know what to do. As with most programming, there are many other ways of acheiving the same thing, but I won’t be exploring any of them, other than the one that worked for me. All the information here is already out there, but it’s broken into pieces – I couldn’t find any posts showing how to do the whole process from start to finish. So I wrote this.

This presumes you have a Google account and a calendar set up on Google Calendar with events on it which you want to read from a PHP application on a web site. You also need to have a shell account on your server1.

You will see how to set up a project containing a service account, how to set up authorisation for the service account to retrieve the Calendar data for your web page, and how to set up your web site using PHP to access your calendar using the service account.

Setting up the service account

The service account is like a robot user that accesses Google services on behalf of your web site. It has an email address and an ID, and can log in to Google services using a public/private key pair. Your service account has to belong to a project, and each project can contain multiple service accounts. You can have up to 12 free projects, so it’s probably best to create a new one for your calendar data slurper.

  1. Go to https://console.cloud.google.com and log in if necessary. Click on the 3-dot logo / pull down menu at the top to open the “Select a project” box. Click on “Add new project” or, if you already have one you are going to use, select it here and go to step 3.
  2. Give your project a name and see if the “Project ID” is to your liking. I called mine “Testy test”. Click “Create”.
  3. From here on I’m calling the project “Testy test”. You might want to call yours something a bit less stupid.
  4. If the page doesn’t say “Welcome. You are working in Testy test.”, select the project, either from the notifications drop down, or by clicking the 3-dot logo.
  5. Click on the “IAM & Admin” quick access button or select it from the navigation menu on the left. The page will show you as being the principle for the project “Testy test” but not much else. Click on “Service Accounts” on the left navigation pane to bring up an empty list of service accounts belonging to the project.
  6. Click “+ CREATE SERVICE ACCOUNT” to go to the next page, which has 3 steps to creating it. First, give your service account a name and description:
  7. Make a note of the email address. You will need it later when you share the calendar with your service account. Click “CREATE AND CONTINUE”.
  8. Skip the next two optional steps.
  9. You will now be back at the service account list, with your newly created account showing:
  10. You now want to set up authorisation for your service account by creating keys so it can access APIs. Click on the “Actions” dots and choose “Manage keys”. You will go to a page with an empty list of keys for that service.
  11. Click on “ADD KEY” and choose “Create new key”.
  12. Make sure that “JSON” is selected and choose “CREATE”. Your browser will automatically download a file containing your private key. Upload this file to somewhere safe on your server. This is your private key and has to be accessible to your PHP script but must not be kept anywhere accessible by your web server. On a Linux system, keep it somewhere off your home directory, not your web root (usually public_html) directory. This is really important, so much so that the word “not” is not only bold, but red as well. You have to keep this key private.
  13. You now need to enable the Calendar API for your project. Click on “APIs & Services” in the quick links box of the “Welcome” page or the left menu. Click on “+ ENABLE APIS AND SERVICES”.
  14. Do a search for “Calendar” and click on the result that says “Google Calendar API”.
  15. Click on the “Enable” button and you will be taken to the entry for the Calendar API off the “Enabled APIs and Services” page, showing stats for that API.

Your service account is now ready to go.

Setting up your web server with the PHP for using the API

You now need to download the PHP scripts to for use with the Google API. Well, you don’t NEED to, you could write it all yourself, and there is information out there on how to do it. But anyone sane would just use the scripts that Google provide for free.

  1. The easiest way to install the scripts you need for PHP is to use Composer. This is an installer which works in a similar way to Apt. Follow the instructions on this page to install it.
  2. Install the Google API PHP files by using this command in your web site’s root directory:
    composer require google/apiclient:^2.15.0

Now you are ready to start using the calendar API.

Allowing the service account to access your calendar

Before you can access the calendar from your PHP pages, you need to share it with your service account.

  1. Start Calendar in a web browser and click on the burger of the calender you want to use in the “My calendars” section and choose “Settings”:
  2. Scroll down to the “Share with specific people or groups” section and click “Add people and groups”.
  3. Remember part 7 of setting up the service account? Where I said make a note of the email address? Yup. That’s what you put in the “Add email or name” box. Make sure the “See all event details” is chosen and then click “Send”. If you want your PHP script to be able to alter the calendar you need to choose another option that allows it. Only grant permissions that are necessary.
  4. Scroll down to the “Integrate calendar” section and make a note of the Calendar ID. It looks something like “qhhbdvqi5dom44arse60oav68k@group.calendar.google.com”.
  5. It’s at this point that I wish I had read the documentation a bit more closely and seen this:

Note: Sharing a calendar with a user no longer automatically inserts the calendar into their CalendarList. If you want the user to see and interact with the shared calendar, you need to call the CalendarList: insert() method.

Read that again. It’s important. I spent literally hours trying to find out why the API couldn’t see the calendar. Hours wasted because I didn’t read a paragraph of text. Anyway I’m not bitter, as you can tell.

Hitting the PHP

There doesn’t seem to be a way to insert a calendar into the service account’s calendar list from the admin console, so you need to run the following code on your server. Download it here – right click on that link and choose “Save link as…”

<?php
require_once __DIR__.'/vendor/autoload.php';

if ($argc < 2) {
    echo "Supply the calendar name as an argument\n";
    exit;
}

$calendarId = $argv[1];

$client = new Google_Client();
$client->setAuthConfig('/path/to/credentials.json');

$client->setScopes('https://www.googleapis.com/auth/calendar');
$client->setApplicationName("My Calendar");

$service = new Google_Service_Calendar($client); 

$calendarListEntry = new Google_Service_Calendar_CalendarListEntry();
$calendarListEntry->setId($calendarId);

$service->calendarList->insert($calendarListEntry);

$calendarList = $service->calendarList->listCalendarList();

while(true) {
  foreach ($calendarList->getItems() as $calendarListEntry) {
    echo $calendarListEntry->getSummary() . "\n";
  }
  $pageToken = $calendarList->getNextPageToken();
  if ($pageToken) {
    $optParams = array('pageToken' => $pageToken);
    $calendarList = $service->calendarList->listCalendarList($optParams);
  } else {
    break;
  }
}
?>

Edit the highlighted parts with your path to the keys file (step 11 of setting up the service account) and change the application name if you want to. Then run the script from the command line with:

naich:~$ php add_calendar.php qhhbdvqi5dom44arse60oav68k@group.calendar.google.com

Obviously change the calendar ID to the one you want to use (step 4 of allowing the service access to your calendar). If all goes well you should see the name of the calendar you have added along with the other calendars (if any) that have been added to that service account already. If not you will see lines of error messages. Make sure you have followed all the steps in “Allowing the service to access your calendar”.

Your service account is now ready for your scripts to use.

Getting started

https://developers.google.com/calendar has information about using the calendar API and the examples (e.g. in this tutorial) usually have PHP versions. The examples assume you have already set up a service in your PHP script – something like this:

require_once __DIR__.'/vendor/autoload.php';

$calendarId = "qhhbdvqi5dom44arse60oav68k@group.calendar.google.com";

$client = new Google_Client();
$client->setAuthConfig('/path/to/credentials.json');

$client->setScopes('https://www.googleapis.com/auth/calendar');
$client->setApplicationName("Calendar");

$service = new Google_Service_Calendar($client);

There is a list of Google_Service_Calendar methods which is confusing as hell to me. If you use the links on the left with “_Resource” at the end you get a list of functions for that class. So, for example, the Google_Service_Calendar_Events_Resource page shows how to get a list of events for a calendar. The code would be:

$events = $service->events->listEvents($calendarId);

Follow the link in the “Returns” section to see how to use the $events class. Something like:

  foreach ($events->getItems() as $event) {
    $name = $event->getSummary();
    $startDate = $event->getStart()->getDate();
    $endDate = $event->getEnd()->getDate();

And so on. Basically you need to do a lot of reading of documents, which is where I’ll leave you now.

Good luck!

  1. I think that in theory you could do all this on a hosted account, but it would not be straightforward to keep the private key secure if you can only access space that is readable by the web server. You would also have to install the Google PHP APIs manually. ↩︎

About: beaks.live – the software

This is the bird box that is shown at beaks.live. It is on the side of a house in Cambourne, about 8 miles west of Cambridge, in the UK.

Right from the start, the plan was to get it working roughly and quickly and then improve it until it was the best I could do with the crap hardware – this being a £11 webcam connected via USB to a Raspberry Pi 4, which also drives transistors to work the cheapest infra-red LEDs I could find.

Having messed around with RTMP (no one uses it any more) and HLS (I’ll be fucked if I can get it to work) for streaming, I eventually ended up with this system:

The Raspberry Pi takes care of the camera and lighting, uploading the video to the server (a VDS hosted with Mythic Beasts), which does all the heavy lifting of looking for motion and streaming live footage to the many dozens of viewers who are eager to catch a glimpse of beak.

Did I mention the camera is crap? The automatic exposure sets itself to some random level and occasionally flashes up and down twice a second, apparently to relieve the boredom. So the R-Pi has to sort out the exposure, and luckily, you can set most of the camera settings manually via USB. Every 10 minutes the Pi records 5 seconds of video, takes 5 frames and averages the light level on each of them. It then sets the exposure, gamma, and LED levels* depending on whether it needs to be lighter or darker. Or it just leaves things as they are if it’s all hunky dory.

* the LEDs are so dim I just leave them all on all the time now.

It records 5 minutes of video at a time, using FFmpeg (with some video tweaking and normalisation to make the crap camera’s video a bit nicer), which is then uploaded to the server. Funny story – I originally set up the Pi’s exposure setting software so it calculated the camera’s exposure settings from this video – this video which has been normalised. So whatever is coming out of the camera, FFmpeg “fixes” it, and then exposure setting software thinks everything is hunky dory, despite the exposure being so wrong the video is just noise. This is why it records 5 seconds of unfixed video separately to check the exposure. A couple of months later I had forgotten this, and had the brilliant idea of using samples from the 5 minute feed rather than doing a separate 5 second one. I thought the camera had died, until I remembered the normalisation and why I didn’t do it like that originally. I look forward to doing the same thing again in July, September, November, etc.

Incidentally, all this software is written in a mixture of Python and Bash scripting because I am a masochistic lunatic. I love Bash – it’s just mad, with random shit like functions looking like “function my_function () { …” where the ()’s do nothing because you can’t put anything inside them – they are purely decorative.

But I digress. The server has the latest video uploaded to it. It keeps the last 4 uploads so there is 20 minutes of buffer. It deletes the oldest one once it has been processed for motion detection. There is a watchdog timer on the server and the Pi will only upload a video if it’s been updated recently enough. This is to stop the server being filled up with files if it reboots and the processing stops or something. Each 5 minutes is about 100MB.

The motion detection is done with DVR-Scan and hits are processed to generate thumbnails and a static web page. Anything less than 30 seconds long is discarded to get rid of most of the dross. Videos older than 25 hours are deleted so there’s a rolling list of videos.

The live page is also static and uses video.js for the player. The current 5 minute chunk location is obtained using an XMLHttpRequest, then the video loaded with JS. When it gets to the end, the JS gets the next section and plays it with a minor blip for the viewer.

The “live” video is actually always 10-15 minutes in the past because it takes 5 minutes to record a chunk before it’s uploaded and then the server tells the player to play the previously uploaded one so you don’t start watching one that’s still uploading.

It’s a bit like the HLS streaming system, except there’s hideous latency and mine works. If you want to mess it up, right click and choose “show all controls” and then slide the slider to the end. I’ve no idea why I’ve told you that.

About: beaks.live – the hardware

This is the bird box that is shown at beaks.live. It is on the side of a house in Cambourne, about 8 miles west of Cambridge, in the UK.

When I put a camera in this bird box last year, I was not optimistic. Expecting to capture nothing more than the inside of an empty box, there didn’t seem much point in spending any significant sum of money on a camera. I decided to see how well I could get it working for how little money.

Two cameras for £21.66 doesn’t scream quality, but they are able to manually focus down to a few cm. Being cheap and nasty also means they won’t have an infra-red filter on the lens, which means I can illuminate the box at night with a light the beaks can’t see.

I picked one and sawed off the mounting at the bottom, knocked up a 3d printed housing to fit it in the apex of the bird box roof, and fitted some cheap Ebay IR LEDs.

A mess of wires being put into the 3d printed camera mount.
Cheap and nasty does it every time

This is the camera and LED housing mounted in the bird box:

Looking up into the box with the mounting fitted.
Looking upwards into the roof of the box

On the outside is the 3d printed box which holds the interface to the cable that goes into the house and the drivers for the LEDs. I actually had a proper PCB made with a D/A for the microphone but I never wired it up because I’m lazy. That’s why there is no sound. Sorry.

The interface box with unused D/A.

The LED controls and USB for the camera share a length of CAT-5 cable into the house, where they plug into the Raspberry Pi, which has an ethernet connection to the router.

And that’s the hardware. Total cost probably around £75, including custom made PCBs, which were ridiculously cheap. I mean like stupidly cheap – around £5 for 5 PCBs, including delivery from China. Anything clever is done in software, including stuff to improve the performance of the (frankly substandard) parts I used. Next year I’ll replace it with decent kit, including a camera that isn’t shit.

Coming up next… The software

Ever wondered why plumbers are paid so much?

Standard home brewing conditions

It’s a difficult job that combines working in horrible conditions with the need for multiple skill sets. But the main reason plumbers are well paid is because they know the arcane secrets of plumbing fittings. It is dangerous, forbidden knowledge, some of which I am about to share. Strap in. We are going through the looking glass…

Update: Thanks to all the good people on Hacker News for their input, from which I’ve learned a lot. I should stress that any following advice is not from a professional plumber and is purely from my own experience as an idiot making a low pressure beer handling system. It should not be read as the proper way to do anything, especially if you are working on pressurised systems and definitely totally 100% not with gas fittings. Get someone in to do that, you lunatic. Seriously. Don’t mess with gas.

This is posted from the perspective of a home brewer, so it’s just a small subset of the world of plumbing fittings – we use mainly stainless steel fittings for sanitary reasons.

The first thing to remember is this:

Nothing makes sense

In the UK, stainless steel fittings usually screw into each other, using a standard thread called “BSP” – British Standard Pipe thread. You will see 1/4 BSP, 1/2 BSP etc. A common size is 1/2 BSP – the “1/2″ is, of course 1/2 an inch. So which part of the thread is 1/2 an inch? None of it. So it’s the diameter of the pipe? Nope. The pipe’s diameter is about 3/4”. The 1/2″ refers to the inside diameter of some random cast iron pipe the fittings were originally made for. This type of pipe has probably not been used since 1834 when Isambard Kingdom Brunel rigged his privy to flush as a birthday present to his wife. Nothing in a 1/2″ BSP fitting measures half an inch – not even the inside diameter of the pipe, because modern pipes have thinner walls.

So to recap, the “BSP” measurement is a standard for the outside pipe diameter and threads and gets its number from the inside diameter of a pipe that doesn’t exist. I guess we should just be grateful that a larger number means a larger pipe – I’m looking at you, Standard Wire Gauge.

But let’s not get downhearted, it is a standard after all. At least any 1/2 BSP thread fits any other 1/2 BSP thread. It must do, right? Oh dear god no. There are two types of BSP thread and the first fits in the second but the second doesn’t fit in the first.

You can have either a tapered thread or straight thread on either the female or the male part of the fitting. Note that the picture shows the straight thread having an O ring. Nah. That’s way too easy, so we don’t do that – more later. Anyway, obviously a tapered male in a tapered female is fine, and you get a nice tight fit. Now imagine putting a tapered male in a straight female. That too is fine; the bottom few threads don’t fit properly, but the top ones do and there is enough contact to make a seal. But putting a straight male in a tapered female does not work. It will leak and you will be sad. The thread of the straight male hits the bottom of the tapered thread while the top is loose, so there is hardly any contact area.

So you need to make sure you are getting your tapers and straights correct, and naturally no one goes to any effort to tell you what you are buying. In theory “BSPT” means BSP Tapered and “BSPP” means BSP Parallel but hardly anyone uses these terms because that would make it too easy. Everyone just calls them “BSP” so there is no way to know if they are parallel or tapered, unless it’s actually stated somewhere in the description, which it usually isn’t. Some people even call straight ones “BSPT” because they think the “T” stands for “thread”. Marvellous. That really fucking helps, thanks.

Given that using a tapered female fitting means 50% of the male fittings don’t actually fit, then they must be rare, right? Nope. They are everywhere and you have to use your telekinesis because no retailer ever bloody tells you if they are tapered or straight. You might be thinking “what is the point in making tapered female fittings if you can fit both straight and tapered males in straight ones, which are easier to make?” The answer is simple – they hate you and they hate me. Or possibly tighter coupling or something, but I suspect it’s just plain spite. When buying male fittings, it’s best to always get tapered ones so they fit in either. I mean why do they even make straight ones? The only possible reason is malice. Or they are cheaper. It’s malice though.

It would be useful if manufacturers indicated the fitting type with some sort of mark, so of course they don’t. You have to squint at it and guess.

This is not a problem for plumbers, who have to have every type of fitting on the planet rattling around in the back of the van. If they buy 50 flanged wibblers with tapered threads by mistake, they can just buy 50 straight ones from somewhere else and they will all be used eventually. You and I end up with a box full of unwanted fittings, but it’s useful to have spares, I suppose.

There are other types of fitting – “G” (as in G 1/2) and “NPT” (as in 1/2 NPT) . You might see “G 1/2” used with metric push-fit connectors. Yeah, that’s BSP as well. G 1/2 is 1/2 BSP because it’s not confusing enough to just have one name for a standard that doesn’t always fit itself. At least they kept the numerical part of the name – which doesn’t actually match any dimension of the fitting,

Then there’s NPT. NPT threads are different from BSP, which actually comes as something of a relief at this point. Naturally, they aren’t different enough to be immediately obvious because that would spoil the fun. Oh yes, NPT is identical to BSP, with the only difference being angle of the valleys in the thread and that the threads are pointed. This means that despite looking the same, NPT is not compatible with BSP. Because fuck you, that’s why. Luckily, you don’t see many NPT threaded fittings in the UK and they are only sold by genuinely evil retailers.

Let’s dip briefly into the sane world of metric fittings. Ahhh… 15mm compression fittings make sense, with their sensible millimetres sensibly representing the actual diameter of the pipe. Except that… Sorry… The thread on a METRIC 15mm compression fitting is not metric, it’s 1/2 BSPP! You cannot escape the lunacy in a metric lifeboat. Actually, best not to complain because it’s quite useful that you can do things like bodge cheapo 15mm isolating valves into your 1/2 BSP pipework.

Unless it’s tapered.

Using the bloody things

Given the ubiquity of BSP threads in stainless fittings, you might think there is some sort of advantage in using this utterly psychotic standard. It must give nice leak-tight results and be easy to use? No. It’ll drip like a fucked fridge and you don’t know what angle the joint will be when it’s tightened up. On the plus side, you get a genuine feeling of achievement when you get a nice looking leak-free system. On the minus side, everything else.

Remember that picture up there showing tapered and straight threads? Remember the one on the right says it uses an O-ring? Bullshit. It’s a fairy story that plumbers tell their children (probably). In the real world, there is no flange on your typical straight fitting. Look.

A 90 degree 1/2 BSP coupling, yesterday

Where does the O-ring go, eh? Eh? EH??? No, we use PTFE tape, and it sucks. For what it’s worth, I tightly wrap the tape 10 times round the male thread and get an enraged mountain gorilla to tighten it up. Or a bloody great spanner if there are no nearby gorillas. This means, of course that it ends up with the other end pointing in a random direction. If you want your pipework to look like a Windows XP screensaver, then that’s fine. For those of us with an ounce of pride left and some vestigial will to live, there are 2 choices:

  1. Before going full gorilla on the joint, there is a small window of tightness where the thread hasn’t bottomed out, but it will still be leak proof. If your desired angle is in that window, then the gods of plumbing have smiled on you this day. Good luck finding it. Plumbers, of course, have an extra sense to us mortals and can find it easily.
  2. You use a union. This lets you connect two BSP fittings without screwing them together. Each thread is screwed in to a round flange and the two flanges push together with a PTFE washer between them. A large nut clamps the two halves tightly.
The state of the union.

This is especially useful when you are assembling the final mess.

I hope this is useful to you and good luck in your plumbing. Final comment: Don’t bother using “Dope” or “Rectorseal” or whatever the name of the compound that is supposed to magically produce a leak-free result in seconds. Just buy cheap PTFE tape, and lots and lots of it. 12 rolls might see you through a medium sized project.

Conclusion.

Fucking hell.

Chill out man

The journey of creating a proper brewing setup begins (and continues) with various pipes popping off and blasting your face with water, cartoon-style, before you eventually end up with something that works and doesn’t fill your garage with water.

The horrible mess in that picture is what I actually tried to use for my first brew with a plate chiller. It did such a terrible job that it prompted me to spend 3 months doing it properly. If your set up looks anything like that you might want to read on.

The setup shown here is pretty typical from what I’ve seen on YT videos. It takes the wort from the outlet at the bottom, runs it through the chiller, on to the pump, and then out to the whirlpool outlet at the top. Other than just looking plain nasty, there are a number of things wrong with it:

  • Each silicon pipe held on with jubilee clip is a time bomb, waiting for you to forget to tighten it up.
  • The chiller is sitting on its back, which is inefficient, and means you end up with a chiller full of wort at the end of the brew.
  • The pump is higher than the chiller. It’s not self-priming so you have to fill up the chiller first before you can start pumping.
  • Bump into the table and all that stuff goes on the floor, probably pulling off a pipe or two before putting a dent in your chiller.
  • You have to disconnect and reattach pipes when you want to change the configuration, like if you want to pump out to a conical fermenter. Each disconnect is another splash of wort on the floor. Forget to turn a tap off first and it’s a splash and a gush.
  • Cleaning it will be a pain because of all those silicon pipes flobbling everywhere. Poke them in a bucket to circulate cleaning solution and as soon as your back is turned at least one will flibbit out and start spraying everywhere.
  • “Flobbling” and “flibbit” are apparently already words in the Urban Dictionary with utterly disgusting meanings.

So, enough wibbling, here is my solution:

The Desplashinator 3000000

If you are thinking “that still looks pretty shit”, then you would be right, but it works better than it looks. From whirlpool to chilling to pumping out to cleaning, you don’t need to keep disconnecting stuff, thanks to all those valves. This is a diagram of what it is:

More valves than a 1945 radio

Before we get into how it works, let’s talk valves. It uses two different types: expensive 3 part ball valves and cheap as chips 15mm compression fitting valves. Did you know that the thread on a 15mm compression fitting is 1/2 BSP? It fits into a stainless 1/2 BSP female thread (as long as it’s not tapered), and that can lead to all sorts of fun and bodgery, as long as you use enough PTFE tape. I might do a separate post on plumbing fittings because they are a nightmare of unexpected incompatibility and unexpected compatibility.

Anyway, basically – expensive 3 part fittings are for passing wort through so they can be disassembled, and cheapo 15mm ball valves are for flushing with water and cleaning. Wort never goes through the 15mm ones, so they don’t need to be taken apart when you do a deep clean. Almost all the other parts are stainless 1/2 BSP fittings, which aren’t cheap but are pretty bullet proof.

Other features are:

  • The pump is at the bottom for easier priming.
  • The chiller is mounted vertically for more efficiency and easier draining.
  • Draining and cleaning ports have Hozelock connectors on them for cheap and easy connecting to hosepipes.
  • It’s all mounted on a sturdy wooden frame so bits don’t fall over.
  • There is a dedicated line to the FV so no fiddling with pipes. It’s essentially a sealed system to stop contamination.
  • You can whirlpool without the chiller being inline, so it doesn’t get clogged up with bits of hops before the hop cone forms.

How to use

So your boil is going to finish soon. First thing is to sterilise the equipment by running the boiling wort through it. Don’t start the cooling water yet. Open V1, V2 and V4 and wait for the pump to fill up and turn it on. You can speed up the process by pulsing the pump to shake the bubbles out.

Leave it running for a minute or two to get the hops whirlpooled towards the centre of the boiler. Then slowly open up V3 to start running the wort through the chiller. Do it slowly because it’s full of air and you’ll get big bloikking bubbles in your boiling wort. When the bubbles have stopped close V4 so it’s just circulating through the chiller.

Give it a few more minutes and then turn on the cooling water. Start off with a high flow rate and turn it down as the wort cools.

When you are down to temperature, close V1 and open V5 and pump her out! You will end up with some wort left in the chiller and pump but it’s only a few 100 ml, so I don’t worry about it.

How to clean

The Desplashinator 3000000 makes cleaning fun! If you are weird. I find it fun and I’m pretty weird. Just connect a hose to the drain valve connector, then open up all the 3 piece valves and the drain valve to empty the system – I empty it down a drain in the floor. It has to be lower than the system, obviously.

Stick a hosepipe connected to mains water on the source valve connector, close V1, V2, V3, and V5 and leave V4 open. This flushes the pump out backwards to get rid of bits of hop that might have caught in it. Then close V4 and open V3 to flush the chiller out backwards. You could probably do away with the “Aux” valve and connector because I never use it.

Clean out the boiler, put 5 litres or so of cleaner in it and reconnect it back to the chiller system. Then leave it circulating for a while before flushing with clean water. You can fill up the boiler through the source valve and V1 and flush with that out of the drain valve.

Conclusion

This is so much better than having it on a table and connecting everything with silicon tubing. It was a lot of effort to build, but totally worth it.

Next up: instructions for how to build one.